There is so much to tell about Bosa, but if we should say the moral of the story first: we loved Bosa and would like to come back here!
A view of bosa
Bosa is a small town (~8000 habitants) in the western coast of the Sardinia. It is located on a small hill, on the bank of Temo River. The hill has a castle on it’s top and is surrounded by a very cute old town with a lot of small streets, that was where we were sleeping!
Our house in the small town, with the view we had
The city goes back to Phoenician times, then became part of the Roman Empire. In the Middle Ages it was invaded by Arab pirates several times until eventually in the 12th century the Malaspinas built a hilltop castle that proved vital in defending the town.
A view of bosa from the castle on top
In Bosa you can walk through narrow streets, all full of colorful houses and plants in front and lots of cats! These streets form a labyrinth that starts from the castle on the top and goes down until sea level. It makes you simply happy to walk on those streets.
The old town with its streets, plants and cats
It was off-season when we were there (which was much nicer) but there seems to be one main touristic street. At that time, we were more among the locals. After a week, locals even started notice us and say hello.
The main touristical street
Come to Street of osteria
The osteria street is a parallel street to main touristic street. We discovered it thanks to our host Raffaela who suggested us one to listen to Canto a Tragui (see below) and we are very happy to have found such place.
The small street of osteria
Afterwards we spent all our evenings on that street. Osteria is a type of bar, where traditionally only wine is served and only men come; though today they also have beer and women allowed - even managing it! The people there (only locals) were the kindest people, trying to talk to us in Italian or German, endlessly filling our glasses with red wine, making us drunk without paying a dime. As a plus everyone is singing!
Canto a tragui
In an osteria on this street, there is a cultural local where we listened to canto a tragui - a traditional polyphonic chorus from Bosa, which consists of 4 men (now women can sing as well), standing facing each other.
The four man singing
In Sardinia, each community has its own song, a singular way of interpreting it that it has appropriated for centuries, building up a specific and exclusive repertoire, an original way of naming it (tenore, cuncordu, taxa, cunzertu , chidasantinu, cuntrattu, traggiu, etc.).
There is not much documentation on it, but it seems to date back at least to 16th century (maybe imported as religious music from the Franciscan monks and Jesuits) and since then has been handed down orally.
In Bosa, alongside sacred chants such as the Misere, the Stabat Mater, etc. a very vast secular repertoire also developed, sung at parties and private gatherings. Have a listen there:
the singing (with a doggy participating)
Tragiu singing is a polyphonic practice based on four male voices: bassu (the most severe voice), contra, tenor and cuntraltu. Normally each part is entrusted to a soloist but, during the rites of Holy Week, it is customary to sing with several people on each side. It was a very special moment to listen to such singing!
Nature of Bosa
There are lots of nice beaches and rocks to see around the Bosa, but some are only accessible by car.
Cane Malu
a natural pool carved in the white trachyte rock and can only be reached on foot
The swimming pool of Cane Malu, where people can jump
The swimming pool of Cane Malu
Cala ‘e Moro
A realy nice and isolated beach, a bit difficult to access, but worth the effort!
Cala 'e Moro
The best of Bosa: Raffaella and Bruno!
We cannot finish our description of Bosa without mentioning Bruno and Raffaella! By welcoming us and sharing their life, they made all of this possible. A big thank you to you two, we hope to see you soon!
